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Taking the Kids — how much family travel has changed
The kids are everywhere.
They’re chasing lizards in the glorious tropical gardens, building sandcastles with resort-provided sand toys, paddle-boarding, kayaking, fishing, playing beach volleyball and basketball and doing cannonballs into the pool. They’re even getting lessons from the bartender in whipping up mocktails.
“The banana smoothies are the best!” an 8 year old named Brady told me.
Talk about kid vacation heaven — Caribbean style. “They really cater to the kids here at Curtain Bluff observes Dr. Tania Spenlinhauer, here in Antigua from Maine with her husband and three kids, including Brady, for her sister’s wedding at the resort. That the small (just 72 rooms) all-inclusive resort offered so much for the six young grandchildren was a big factor in why the family opted to gather here, they said.
“We could even give the older kids some independence because we knew they’d be safe,” said the bride’s mom, Peg Spenlinhauer.
Another mom confides that her son who has Asperberger syndrome is having the vacation of his life, trying things he’s never done like snorkeling. “He is completely relaxed,” she said. “There is no comparison to a regular hotel.”
I can’t help but flash back 30 years when my husband and I honeymooned here. He had found the place in a book, charmed by the story of how the late owner Howard Hulford decided to build a hotel on this peninsula after spotting the land — surrounded by reef — and seeing the two beaches — one tranquil, one with crashing waves.
Seeing all the kids — and their parents and grandparents — having so much fun here recently made me realize that Curtain Bluff is emblematic of how much family travel has changed in the last three decades — and how the travel industry has changed as a result.
On our honeymoon, we sat on the windswept surf beach outside our room — every room faces the ocean — drinking champagne left over from our wedding, watching the crashing waves and talking about the kids we would have and, just as important, the adventures we would share with them. And that, of course, is the sea change resorts like Curtain Bluff have had to face.
“When I was a kid, my parents left us and they went away. This generation takes our kids,” said Steven Rosenbaum, here with his family from Connecticut.
Grandparents too. Alida and Rod McRae have been coming here for 30 years, mostly with another couple and only occasionally with one son or another when they were nearly grown. This summer, they’re returning with all three sons and their families — five grandchildren ranging in age from six to 16.
Kids were not a big part of Hulford’s equation when Curtain Bluff opened in 1962. Wine was (the resort boasts the biggest wine cellar in the Caribbean), so was food. The resort has long been known for its cuisine. Kids were only here during the holidays and sometimes, spring break; some months they weren’t permitted at all. There certainly wasn’t a playground or a kids’ club. The resort wasn’t open in the summer when most families vacation.
Today, you can vacation through July and it’s a bargain, with rates as much as 40 percent lower than winter and free-night deals on certain category rooms. (For more summer vacation ideas in the Caribbean and elsewhere, check out our new Summer Fun section.)
The best part is that parents are guaranteed a break too — maybe a massage at the spa or a soak in the hot tub on the bluff overlooking the sea — because there are some organized kids’ activities and the watchful staff keeps an eye on those old enough to wander on their own. Tired kids old enough to be in their room on their own can even order room service for dinner at no extra charge while parents linger over theirs.
The all-inclusive nature of the resort means the family can enjoy any activity — even scuba diving and deep sea fishing — and eat as much as they like without any sticker shock, which McRae says he’s faced at other resorts when it comes time to pay the bill. (All-inclusive rates for two start at just $625 a night; with kids and teens sharing the room it’s $155 a night). That’s certainly not cheap — this is an upscale resort — but it’s a good value when you realize it doesn’t cost anything extra, even if you go fishing every morning and snorkeling every afternoon; even if the boys order three portions of French toast at breakfast or a double portion of lobster salad at lunch; no matter how many tropical cocktails you drink or how many smoothies the kids order. (And those add up fast!)
The young general manager, Chris Eastmond, himself the father of a 5 year old, says he wants to preserve “the magic dust” that has made so many guests return to Curtain Bluff year after year, while meeting the needs of today’s guests — whatever their age.
They’re ramping up organized kids’ activities (think learning to fish and sailing instruction) and special early kids’ dinners when a lot of children are in house. There are even plans to partner with a local school so visiting kids can learn what it is like to grow up on a Caribbean island. Already on weekends, when local kids come to the resort to learn to play tennis, they meet the guests at lunch. (The most promising tennis players are awarded scholarships to a tennis camp in Maine through Curtain Bluff’s guest-supported Old Road Fund.)
“We want to incorporate what’s new with the soul that is here,” Eastmond said.
That soul is a long-term staff that hugs each guest when they arrive and when they leave. Hulford’s widow, Chelle, still lives on the property and is a constant presence, chatting up the guests and their kids.
“We’ll keep coming back as long as we’re able,” vows Alida McRae.
Us too.
Eileen Ogintz is a syndicated columnist and writes about family travel on her Taking the Kids blog, and is the author of the new series of Kid’s Guide to NYC, Orlando and the just released Washington, DC from Globe Pequot Press.
The Saturday City: Portland By Nomadic Matt |
Portland, Oregon is a city located in the Pacific Northwest region of the United States and one too often overlooked by tourists, living in the shadow of cities like L.A., Seattle, Vegas, Chicago, or New York City. But Portland is one of America’s most unique (and liberal) cities, famous for its outdoor adventures, micro-brewed beer, green living, parks, and boutique food.
My first trip here was a few years ago for Thanksgiving. While in Spain I made friends who lived in Portland and paid them a visit on my way to Asia. Then last year I came back and spent more time eating my way around the city. What started as a like during my first trip turned into love on my second. And now, I can’t wait to return next month as part of my book tour. Portland has joined the very tiny list of cities I would actually live in.
What I really love about Portland is the high quality of life. It’s easy to get around, there is good public transportation available, it’s compact, there’s delicious food, the locals are friendly, it’s environmentally friendly, and, most importantly, there’s great beer.
I think Portland has a lot to offer travelers. It’s a shame this city gets overlooked so often. But if you do make it here (and you should), here’s my list of top things to do:
See Pittock Mansion – A stunning Victorian mansion in the western part of Portland that dates back nearly a century. The mansion contains beautiful artwork and furniture collected by the original owners. You can explore the mansion by yourself or on a guided tour.
Explore the Portland Underground – The Portland Underground Tour explores a series of tunnels in the Old Town section of Portland. The tours focus on the history of the tunnels, where kidnappers sold their victims to work aboard boats leaving port. I love underground city tours; I find learning about how cities grow and build on top of themselves fascinating (Seattle and Edinburgh underground tours are especially interesting) and this tour is no exception. They also offer paranormal related tours but I tend to stay away from those.
Wander Downtown Portland – The heart of the city is centered around Pioneer Square and is a great place to explore local shops, hang out in the square, and just wander around. There’s nothing really special about this area but I like grabbing a drink, sitting in the square, and people-watching on a nice day.
Hang out in the Pearl District – A very hip and trendy neighborhood on the streetcar line. It is an excellent place to hang out and people-watch while eating at some of the best restaurants in the city. On the first Thursday of every month, all the art galleries open their doors for casual viewing, and many serve wine and cheese. The famous Powell’s Bookstore is also located in this area. (I’ll be stopping there as part of my book tour!)
Hike Forest Park – Located in the hills northwest of downtown, Forest Park is one of the nation’s largest urban parks at 5,000 acres in size. There are many great hiking and biking trails to be found winding through this natural forest setting. Portland is famous for its proximity to nature and this is one of the best places in the city to “get away from it all.”
Lan Su Chinese Garden – I love the peacefulness of Chinese gardens. This beautiful urban retreat is in the heart of Chinatown and features a pond, a teahouse, pavilions, and lots of gardens. If you are on a budget, you can peek through the ornate open windows and see much of the gardens without paying admission.
Enjoy Laurelhurst Park – A beautiful park designed by a horticultural expert from the same team that designed New York City’s Central Park. This park has a great atmosphere in good weather, with lots of locals and visitors enjoying the duck pond, the bike paths, and the off-leash dog area.
Visit Washington Park – Washington Park is a classic urban park with a whole bunch of trails that take you between the stands of trees, around the hills and through the canyons. The park contains memorials for the Korean and Vietnam Wars, the Holocaust, and the Lewis and Clark expedition, and also offers beautiful vistas of Portland and Mount Hood. It’s just another example of how “green” this city is.
Gorge at the Food Trucks – Portland is famous for its gourmet food trucks that dot all corners of the city. Around Alder St. you’ll find the main concentration of them, with trucks serving every type of food you can imagine. When I’m in town I tend to eat the majority of my meals at these food carts because the portions are so big, the food so damn delicious, and the prices reasonable. If you’re not eating here, you’re missing out on a huge part of Portland culture. You can even take tours of all the food trucks.
Drink Some Great Beer – Portland is one of the beer capitals of America with over 70 microbreweries in the city. They take beer seriously here and Portlanders will tell you they have the best beer in the country. That might be a stretch though. Visit Deschutes for a wide selection of beers as well as Widmer Brothers and BridgePort Brewing. Most of the breweries also double as restaurants and some allow you to take brewery tours as well.
Portland is one of my favorite American cities and I’m looking forward to the fact that I get to be there twice this year (once for my book tour and later for a conference). The city gets some attention in the U.S. but not a lot overseas; despite its domestic recognition, I still don’t think enough people go visit. Make Portland one of your next destinations, especially in the summer, when the city really comes alive.
Check out Nomadic Matt blog ; http://www.nomadicmatt.com/
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